All about Bandhej or Bandhani Sarees (A-Z)

Bandhej or Bandhani sarees are a traditional form of tie-dye textile art that originates from the Indian states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. These sarees are known for their vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and unique craftsmanship. The word ‘Bandhani’ is derived from the Hindi word ‘Bandhan,’ which means ‘tying up.’ This reflects the technique used to create these beautiful sarees, where the fabric is tightly tied at various points before dyeing, creating a myriad of patterns and designs.

History and Origin

The art of Bandhani dates back to over 5,000 years, making it one of the oldest forms of textile decoration in India. It is believed that the Bandhani technique was introduced in India by the Khatri community of Gujarat. Historical records and ancient scriptures also suggest that Bandhani sarees were worn by queens and royal women during the time of the Indus Valley Civilization. The intricate art form has been passed down through generations, with each region and community adding its unique touch to the craft.

The Making of Bandhani Sarees

The process of making Bandhani sarees is labor-intensive and requires skilled craftsmanship. Here are the key steps involved in creating a Bandhani saree:

Selecting the Fabric: The process begins with selecting the fabric, which is usually cotton, silk, or georgette. Cotton is preferred for its breathability, while silk and georgette are chosen for their luxurious feel.

Tying the Fabric: The fabric is then tied at various points using a thread. These tied points create patterns on the fabric once it is dyed. The tighter the ties, the finer the patterns. The tying is done by skilled artisans who follow traditional patterns or create new designs.

Dyeing the Fabric: The tied fabric is dipped into vats of dye. Traditionally, natural dyes were used, but now synthetic dyes are also common. The dye does not penetrate the tied areas, leaving behind intricate patterns once the fabric is untied.

Untying and Finishing: After dyeing, the fabric is dried and then untied to reveal the patterns. The saree is then washed, dried again, and sometimes undergoes additional processes like block printing or embroidery to enhance its beauty.

Types of Bandhani Sarees

Bandhani sarees come in various types, each with its distinct style and pattern. Some of the popular types include:

1. Leheriya: This type of Bandhani saree features wave-like patterns that resemble the flow of water. Leheriya sarees are usually dyed in bright colors like yellow, red, and green.
2. Jhankaar Bandhani: Known for its vibrant and contrasting colors, Jhankaar Bandhani sarees are popular for festive occasions. The patterns are intricate and often cover the entire fabric.
3. Ek Dali and Trikunti Bandhani: These sarees have small dot patterns arranged in a single line (Ek Dali) or three lines (Trikunti). They are usually dyed in darker shades like maroon, navy blue, and black.
4. Shikari Bandhani: Shikari Bandhani sarees depict scenes from nature or mythology, such as animals, birds, or stories from epics. These sarees are highly detailed and considered collector’s items.
   

Cultural Significance

Bandhani sarees hold immense cultural significance in Indian traditions and customs. In Gujarat and Rajasthan, it is customary for brides to wear Bandhani sarees as part of their wedding trousseau. The sarees are also considered auspicious and are believed to bring good luck and prosperity to the wearer.

Modern Adaptations

While Bandhani sarees are deeply rooted in tradition, they have also evolved with time to suit contemporary fashion trends. Designers are now experimenting with new patterns, color combinations, and fabrics to make Bandhani sarees appealing to younger generations. Bandhani prints are also being used in other garments like salwar kameez, lehengas, and even western outfits like skirts and dresses.

Care and Maintenance

See also:-how to take care your saree

Caring for a Bandhani saree is crucial to ensure its longevity and maintain its beauty. Here are some tips for taking care of your Bandhani saree:

1. Washing: It is recommended to dry clean Bandhani sarees, especially if they are made of silk or have intricate embroidery. For cotton Bandhani sarees, gentle hand washing in cold water with mild detergent is advisable.
2. Storing: Store the saree in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent the colors from fading. It is also a good idea to wrap the saree in a muslin cloth to protect it from dust and insects.
3. Ironing: Iron the saree on a low to medium heat setting. If the saree has embroidery or embellishments, place a cotton cloth over the saree before ironing to prevent damage.

Conclusion

Bandhej or Bandhani sarees are not just garments; they are a piece of art that reflects India’s rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship. The intricate patterns, vibrant colors, and the painstaking process involved in making these sarees make them truly special. Whether you are wearing a Bandhani saree for a festive occasion or as everyday wear, it is sure to add a touch of elegance and tradition to your wardrobe.

In today’s fashion world, Bandhani sarees have found a special place and continue to be cherished by people of all ages. The blend of tradition with modern aesthetics has ensured that Bandhani sarees remain timeless and ever-relevant. So, the next time you drape a Bandhani saree, remember that you are not just wearing a piece of cloth, but a story of heritage, tradition, and timeless beauty.